building a summer wardrobe one skirt at a time

Over the past month I've had the great privilege of teaching several ladies in my area how to fit and make their own skirts using the book The Essential A-Line by Jona Giammalva. (You can read my gushing reviews of the book in these previous posts.) To date I've taught two sessions on making the basic skirt and one session on sewing this pleated version...

That glasses fabric! So fun! I started sewing this skirt last fall and nearly had it completed, but then the weather turned so I put it aside. A couple of weeks ago I finished it and decided to make another to refresh my memory on how it was constructed, which yielded this summer fresh version using fabrics from Kate Spain's recent Daydream line for Moda (yep, that's a bathroom mirror selfie you're looking at)...

After sewing all these skirts it feels like I can put the zippers in with my eyes closed. I use a combination of a few different methods I've seen (one day I'll write a handy tutorial), and all of my students have been very pleased with how easy they are to insert.

My skirts on display at the LQS where I've been teaching...

And here is my fabric selection for the next skirt - a tiered version where the blue large floral print will be the main piece and the smaller floral print on white will be the bottom "layer" both separated and hemmed by the fuchsia solid.  The florals are from Iza Pearl's new line Garden Party Tango for Windham Fabrics.

It's possible that I might have enough skirts after that one is complete (possible but not likely!) so I'll be expanding my repertoire and wardrobe by making this Schoolhouse Tunic next...

New clothes for spring - what could be better?! Have you made any new clothing recently?

My skirts are (sort of) famous!

My recent skirt sewing binge is featured over at Stop Staring and Start Sewing, the blog of Jona Giammalva, author of "The Essential A-Line", my new favorite skirt sewing book!

My first class on fitting the pattern and making the basic A-Line skirt will be held on Fridays, November 1 and 15 from 6:00-9:00pm (Parts 1 & 2) at Material Girl Fabric Shop in Crystal Lake. You can stop in the shop or call to register. I hope to see you there!

my new favorite fall skirt

Are you tired of seeing photos of my skirt creations yet? I hope not, because after this one I've still got one more to show!

This is a tiered version from The Essential A-Line by Jona Giammalva. The book version has four different fabric tiers, but I've included just two here because I love that main fabric so much.

Fabrics shown are Kaffe's Lotus Leaf in Umber used as the main skirt fabric and his Violets in Ochre used as the bottom tier. I added the Kaffe Shot Cotton in Prune as the bias binding between the fabrics and at the hem.  This one looks fabulous with a lavender tee and jean jacket!

Once again I used a centered back zipper rather than the side invisible zipper shown in the book. These skirts are very easy to make (especially when you've worked the process six times!), but just in case I ever need to alter the sizing, the center back zipper will allow me to take in or let out the side seams to adjust the fit without ripping out the zipper. A side seam invisible zipper is less conducive to alterations.

This skirt is lined with a poly/cotton blend broadcloth and includes a waistband facing, just like many of the others I've made. You can see more of my Essential A-Line skirts and read more details about how I've constructed them by clicking here and here.

Next up for skirts - inverted pleats!

P.S. If you are a local reader, my two-session Essential A-Line basic skirt class will be held on Fridays, November 1 and 15 from 6:00-9:00pm.

these skirts aren't just for summer

These are fall skirts! I've now finished three more skirts using the book The Essential A-Line by Jona Giammalva (previously blogged about here.)

I cannot say enough good things about this book! As you probably know, I love skirts, and this book is by far the best one I've seen to help you make your own fitted pattern that can be varied in so many ways.

The first skirt here is the basic A-Line constructed as directed in the book. It has a side seam invisible zipper and traditional (slippery fabric!) lining. What do you think of that fabric? I can wear ANY color with it! It is called "Effervescence" in Jewel by Robert Kaufman. The fabric is printed with a border running along the selvage on one side, but I was able to cut around that.

Can you see that zipper? No, you cannot, because it is invisible!

Next up is a variation of the basic A-Line. You may recognize this AMH print because I already have another skirt made from it!

This time I changed the pattern from the book to utilize a center-back zipper installation. Since I'm going to be teaching some beginning sewists how to make these skirts, I think a regular centered zipper is far easier to master than an invisible one.

I also added an interfaced waistband facing to this version because I think it helps the skirt to lay better around your middle section.

The lining is a poly/cotton blend broadcloth that is layered together with the main fabric, so it does not hang freely as a traditional skirt lining would. This gives the skirt a bit of a heavier feel (perfect for cooler weather!) while still blocking out any sunshine "see-through".

The hem is encased in a bias binding - one of the hem variations shown in the book. This fabric is one of my all-time favorites: Paperweight in Gypsy by Kaffe Fassett.

And lastly, my version of the book's Patchwork skirt. The author made her patchwork skirt with all 5" squares, but I was inspired by another skirt I saw over the summer made from many different sized cuts of fabrics. I got together with a friend of mine a few weeks ago and we each made one of these skirts (similar but different due to fabric layout) utilizing a shared set of 16 fat quarters. I'll share another post soon with photos of that sewing session - so fun!

Again I added the center-back zipper and waist facing.

And the bias binding hem. This hem fabric is Oval Elements in Licorice by Art Gallery Fabrics.

These three fall beauties are now hanging in the window of my LQS advertising my upcoming November class! I've structured the beginning basic skirt class in two three-hour sessions to be held in the evenings.

Then in 2014 I'm planning to add more classes so students can make some of the book's variations of the basic A-Line skirt. Currently there are two versions on the cutting table in my sewing room - the inverted pleat skirt and the tiered skirt - with a Friday deadline! Must get busy sewing!

Enjoy the week!!

summer skirts

Even though we are down to the last few weeks of summer, I've got a couple of new skirts to show you. This has been my most successful year at attempting a "summer of no shorts". This past spring I came to the realization that I don't like wearing shorts - I know - weird, right? But lately it seems more difficult than it should be to locate a decent-fitting pair that isn't too short or too marmy. Wearing them around the house isn't so bad (and I still do that), but when I'm out and about I just really love a cute skirt. In June my family took a 12 day vacation, and I didn't pack a single pair of shorts, but I did pack and wear several skirts. They're cooler (temperature-wise), girly-er, and waaayyy more fun. And with all the beautiful fabrics available these days, why not make a closet-full of them - a different one to suit your every mood and occasion?

I snagged this book - The Essential A-Line by Jona Giammalva - earlier this summer because I wanted to get some more experience at custom fitting a basic pattern. And yes, the subtitle "Make 17 Flirty Skirts from 1 Basic Pattern" definitely influenced my purchase decision :)

This book is genius!! Based on the full-sized (!) paper templates and measurement charts provided, you can trace a basic A-line skirt pattern drafted to fit your size, and then using the directions and photos provided, make a muslin and tweak the seams and darts to fit you like a glove! And then - here's the best part - use that custom fitted pattern to create 17 different variations of the A-line skirt, undeniably the most universally flattering skirt silhouette for all body types. Whoa - yes, please!

One caveat - the pattern templates provided seem to be a tad over-sized. Based on my measurements I should need a size small, but my muslin that size was way too big. I ended up going down about 1.5 sizes to make it fit me correctly. The fitting process didn't really take that long - maybe 2 hours to trace the pattern, cut and sew the muslin, make the adjustments, and then trace a new pattern. And the pattern fitting is the most important step, but you only need to do it once!

I chose a basic black and white small print for my initial attempt at Jona's method. Here you can see the markings I had to trace on my patterns from her paper templates. These skirts require only two pieces - one front and one back each cut on the fold. You cut each of these pieces from your main fabric and also from a lining fabric. The skirt only has two side seams with an invisible zipper sewn in one side.

In this photo you can see my slippery lining fabric (grrr!) sewn to the main skirt fabric at the waist as I'm pressing. I was a little nervous about the invisible zipper insertion, but it went very smoothly and I got it right the first time! Since the fabrics are black and the zipper is black, I couldn't get any decent photos to show you how it looks, but I'll show you more of that when I make the next one :)

Earlier in June I made this blue, 100% linen skirt using my tried-and-true basic skirt pattern from Butterick (read more about it here). I tried a broadcloth poly/cotton blend for the first time as a lining for the blue skirt, and I was very pleased with the ease of cutting and sewing the broadcloth. It doesn't seem to "stick" to the linen fabric either. From the front these two skirts look like they were made from the same pattern.

But from the back, you can see the centered back zipper on the blue skirt.

There are few other differences between the two - the Butterick pattern has two darts in both the front and back, but the Essential pattern has only two back darts. Butterick has a waistband facing, while the Essential has no facing. The jury is still out on which one I prefer, but it seemed much easier to fit the Essential pattern, maybe due to it's heavy paper templates and the photos with directions for making adjustments?

Look for more skirts coming soon - some of the 17 "flirty" variations of "The Essential A-Line" - because I'll be teaching a "Skirt of the Month" series at my LQS this fall based on the book!!

BTW, Jona Giammalva blogs at Stop Staring and Start Sewing. Check it out...

why yes, it IS another skirt

My latest wardrobe addition is another Fat Quarter skirt made using the fabulous tutorial from Venus de Hilo found here.

A photo of my new skirt front...

And one of my new skirt back...

Stephanie (aka Venus) gives you step by step instructions in three installments so you can make your very own drawstring summery skirt from just six fat quarters! I made one last year using her tutorial, so I already had my custom fitted pattern prepared, and the whole thing took me about two hours. Well, maybe three since I decided to sew the drawstring inside-out and turn it with a bodkin. That took a bit longer than I expected - lesson learned - so next time I'll do it the way she told me :)

I've probably got enough fat quarters in my stash to make one of these skirts for every day of the summer season.

So, you might be seeing more of them here.

Just sayin'...

P.S. Fabrics are from the Stockholm line by Robin Zingone for Robert Kaufman.

my basic summer skirt

The skirt I mentioned in my previous post was finished in time to wear last Saturday. I had to get up early that day to put the hem in, but when it was time to get dressed and attend my girls' dance recital, I was ready!



The fabric is from Anna Maria Horner's Loulouthi cotton line - Clippings in Passion. I was drawn to the bright fuchsia flowers on the charcoal background initially, but there are so many lovely colors in all the flowers that I knew it would be a snap to find coordinating tees and summer sweaters.

It's a simple A-line skirt with a back center zipper and no waistband. And since there are no pieces that need to be cut on the bias, you don't need a bunch of yardage. Mine was made with 1.5 yards = inexpensive fabulous new wardrobe piece! This simple silhouette is a great way to showcase those wild, colorful prints that I love!



I've included some details in this post to let you know how I finish my skirts on the inside. Hopefully you'll find them easy to follow and be inspired to make your own collection of summer skirts!

I made a skirt with this pattern in 2008 adjusting the pieces to fit my smaller waist/larger hip ratio (you can see all my notes on the pattern front.) This A-line cut is a good choice if you've got that same body type since the waist is fitted, but the skirt floats over your hips for a slimming illusion :)



There are only four pieces to this pattern - skirt front and back, and facing front and back. Easy-peasy. You can see the inside of the simple back center zipper here, as well as the waist facing (which is backed with lightweight fusible interfacing for a little added stability and structure.)



Four simple darts (two in front and two in back) nip in the waist area without adding the bulk that a drawstring or elastic would create. This way the top of the skirt lays smoothly against you in front and back.



On the inside I serged all my seam allowances and pressed the back seam open. The two side seams were trimmed, serged, and pressed to the skirt back to cut down on bulk in the hip area. Who needs more bulk there, right? A very simple hem - serge the skirt bottom, press under 3/8" to 1/2", and sew close to the serged edge.



You should definitely wash and dry your fabric before cutting into it. This will insure that any shrinkage occurs before you spend all that time fitting and cutting and sewing, so in the end you'll have a skirt made for you - not someone slightly smaller than you - ask me how I know this ;-)

This is the next fabric I've got pre-washed and ready to make into my basic summer skirt... pretty wild!



Have you got a basic skirt pattern that you've made multiple times? I'm always interested in new pattern suggestions!

girly clothes

I finally got around to sewing one of the skirts I had planned to make last summer, and I finished it just in time to wear it to Thing 1's high school graduation ceremony and party in late May!

True to the pattern name (It's So Easy, It's Simplicity 2410), it was pretty easy to cut and sew. I had to make some adjustments to the waist size, which took me quite a bit of time to get it just right since the facing is intended to fit snugly around your middle (and it's been quite a few months since I altered a commercial pattern). But other than the tailoring bit, it could have easily been completed in one day.

It has a left side standard zipper, which I would change to an invisible zipper if I made the skirt again. I will probably always be wearing a shirt or light sweater that covers the facing area, so no one can see the zipper, but it's not the cleanest zipper insertion I've ever done, and I think the placement is better suited to an invisible type.

I really love the bottom flounce - it gives it that extra touch of girly-ness, and the not-quite-pink, not-quite-lavender color is perfect for spring and summer! The pattern called for a sash to tie around the facing, and while I did make it, I chose not to add it since it just seemed bulky without adding that much pizzazz.

The fabric is Cherry Blossom in Lavender from Bari J. Ackerman's In Full Bloom line. I love that fabric so much that I've got another three yards in the fabric closet!

There is another skirt cut out and partially sewn on my work table right now. My goal is to wear it Saturday, so I'll let you know if I get it finished on time :)

fat quarter drawstring skirt

My friend Stephanie over at Venus de Hilo makes the most fun fat quarter skirts that I have long coveted, and now she has put together a great tutorial for making her easy drawstring skirt from six fat quarters. Recently my friend Andrea and I had a sewing day to make these skirts for ourselves.

Stephanie's instructions are well written and the diagrams very helpful, especially when it comes to making the pattern. She provides a formula that allows you to tailor the pattern based on your hip measurement. We each created a pattern on freezer paper - this was the most time consuming part - but the pattern can be re-used every time we want to make another skirt.

Here is the front view of my skirt. I used six fat quarters from Prints Charming that I bought a couple of years ago with the intention of making a bag. They look so much cuter as a skirt! My husband liked it, saying that it was "cute, fun, well-fitted, and just on the verge of Laugh In, but in a good way." I think he means my fabric choice :)

And this is the skirt back view. You can really only distinguish five different fabrics because the sixth is used for the drawstring and drawstring casing.

I have a bit of an odd shape with regard to my waist/hip ratio. In other words, my hips are larger than they should be to correspond proportionally with my waist. So when my skirt was finished, I had quite a bit of fabric that was gathered in by the drawstring, which is not a very flattering look for me. So I cut the waist in much farther on my pattern, using a fitted skirt from my closet to gauge a better waist measurement. I had to rip out most of the seams to cut the waist down to a better size for me, but now the whole thing is reassembled and ready to wear. Assembly time from pattern making to ready to wear was about 4 hours. My re-do of the pattern and skirt waist took me an additional 90 minutes, but now I've got a custom pattern that I can use again and again to make multiple skirts from all those teetering stacks of fat quarters in my fabric closet! I even managed to wear my new skirt a couple of times before the fall chill hit the air here in the Midwest, and I received many compliments :)

If I knew then what I know now, I probably would have started out with muslin, or used fat quarters that I had no intention of ever wearing, to test out my pattern. Then I would have avoided the unsewing steps, and I probably could have had another set of fat quarters assembled into a skirt from the revised pattern in the same 90 minutes it took me to re-work the original.

Thanks, Stephanie, for a thorough and well-planned tutorial! I do love a great skirt!

You can see all of Stephanie's skirts (and my new one too) over here at her flickr group.  If you're inspired to make a skirt (or three or four) from her tutorial, please let both of us know and share your photos!

Thing 1 summer sewing recap

I just realized that my post from earlier today was not only incorrect in it's title (Thing 2), but it also left out a key bit of information: All the items shown in the photos were sewn by my eldest - Thing 1.

If you didn't read the earlier post, here are all the photos and pattern numbers again. So you don't feel like you missed anything :) If you didn't read it, then it's all new to you anyhow!

McCall's 6400 - top

McCall's 6113 - dress

McCall's 5591 - skirt

Simplicity 2413 - skirt (Project Runway !!)

Not sure of the pattern for the eggplant dress modeled by Thing 1. Venus (de Milo - the dressmaker dummy - so named for her missing head) is modeling a free-form "maybe" creation.

Smile pillows that reside in Thing 2's bedroom. Because she does smile... all the time :)

Thing 1 has some fun things planned for this fall as well, thanks to a trip to Vogue Fabrics last weekend!

dresses and skirts and muslins, oh my!

Look out summer, here I come!! I did a little internet fabric shopping in the grey, drizzly days of April to stock my summer wardrobe.

Two prints from Tanya Whelan's Dolce line will be transformed into dress D below:

This gorgeous floral print on pink background from Bari J. Ackerman's Full Bloom line will become dress C. This was the closest commercial pattern I could find to the Polly Pratt dress worn by Kathy Doughty at Material Obsession that I obsessed about in April (and directly caused the previously mentioned shopping spree):

Another lovely Full Bloom print in lilac is destined to be skirt A:

And finally these Tanya Whelan Delilah prints are going to be the cover girl on Sew Serendipity (sans pocket - who puts a pocket with ruffles on the widest part of their body? Not me):

Lastly, since my body doesn't conform to the measurements on the pattern envelopes, a little bit of muslin to test these patterns and make them fit just right.

All fabrics were purchased from various eBay sellers and QuiltHome.com. Except for that bolt of muslin. It came from Jo-Anns with a 50% off coupon :)